New York Fashion Week Favourites: SS18

15 Sep 2017

Spring/Summer 18 is looking good if New York Fashion Week is anything to go by as I found it harder than ever to narrow down my favourite shows. Designers seem to be increasingly pulling out the stops recently to make huge statements with their runway shows, from Ralph Lauren showcasing his Fall 17 collection in his garage to Alexander Wang hosting #WANGFEST on the streets of Brooklyn, but that doesn't mean the actual collections themselves are being overshadowed. In fact, I found them to be refreshing and a welcome step away from some of the prominent trends that have ruled over the past few seasons. As always, here is a roundup of my favourites with both some long-standing and contenders. 

U L L A  J O H N S O N
Before looking at the entire collection on Vogue Runway I saw glimpses of Ulla Johnson's SS18 show on Instagram and knew I was going to love it. The colour palette for this collection is absolutely stunning, ranging from white to blush pink to terracotta, and offers an ethereal aesthetic in combination with the delicate organza and soft florals. Contrast was provided via the inclusion of rigid-looking denim and, for me, the jeans are among the standout pieces from the collection.

C I N Q  À  S E P T
Cinq à Sept is a brand that I only discovered last season but their collection really stood out as one of my favourites. This season, I was equally impressed. What I love most is their ability to make unique, statement designs appear utterly wearable. Juxtaposing delicate florals with dark pinstripe blazers and tulle skirts with striking white western boots, there is a consistent theme of adding a masculine edge to the typically feminine. The result is very 'fashion girl' but many of their pieces will likely have mass appeal.  

J A S O N  W U
Jason Wu's SS18 collection feels very work-appropriate without being ordinary. Though many of the pieces could be worn to the office, asymmetric silhouettes add interest to classic pinstripes and raw edges give grey tailoring a contemporary update. My favourites from the collection, however, are the dresses; combining several prints together on one garment makes for an easy but stand-out outfit, while the monotone dresses drape effortlessly over the body for a flattering 'polished-but-slightly-undone' look.

J O N A T H A N  S I M K H A I
A designer known for his lacework, the standout pieces from Jonathan Simkhai's collections always tend to be his dresses and that remains true this season. The SS18 offering evokes a feeling of lightness, with a colour palette of sky blue, nude and white. Delicate crochet and lace dominate the collection but the additions of suede (those trousers - so dreamy!) and crisp cotton pinstripes allow for a subtle athleisure undertone.  

V I C T O R I A  B E C K H A M
For Victoria Beckham's SS18 collection, the designer showcased what she does best while also mixing it up, placing her firmly back in my NYFW favourites. The ice cream colour palette and sheer materials freshened up the abundance of fluid, feminine looks she is known for delivering, while evening-friendly options appeared more striking in red, black and white. If anything is to be said about Victoria Beckham's designs, it must be that she makes high fashion pieces utterly wearable.

3 . 1  P H I L L I P  L I M
When athleisure meets workwear, the Phillip Lim SS18 collection is what you get. Sleek tailored looks following a neutral palette of navy, black and white ruled the collection, with pops of primary colours and oversized fits adding a sporty influence. Asymmetric cuts add interest to minimalist garments but my favourite piece of the collection aside from the practical bags has to be the slouchy leather trousers, which provide the perfect balance of chic and comfortable. 

O S C A R  D E  L A  R E N T A
Though some believe their aesthetic doesn't align well with the heritage of Oscar de la Renta, I have enjoyed seeing what Laura Kim and Fernando Garcia have done to update the brand over the past couple of seasons. The SS18 collection had a very contemporary feel to it, offering some more pared-back and modern eveningwear looks (think sequins paired with a colour-pop blazer) alongside red carpet worthy gowns that the brand is typically known for. They also decided to jump on the logomania trend, which evokes a very urban feeling, but I personally think the city chic tailoring is what they do better.

Lilac, lace and double denim were among the trends that dominated the runways throughout NYFW, while satin and silk are set to become the go-to fabrics for Spring/Summer dressing next year. If red is the colour to wear this season, it will either be green or orange next if the New York collections are used to predict. I look forward to seeing what London has in store for us next.

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